I left at 7:00a.m. for Dohuk, a 3 hour ride northwest on very dusty roads, to give 2 lectures on the value of cultural property and the conservator’s role in preserving it. I spoke first at the University of Dohuk to the Director and his students of the Institute of Planning and the College of Engineering and Architecture. I then gave a lecture to the Dohuk Director General of Antiquities and his staff. The highlight for me was a personal tour with the Director General of Antiquities of the Chewar Stoon Cave, an ancient temple site. The cave had 4 natural pillar formations inside, but only 1 was intact due to bombing by Saddam. Apparently he thought his enemies were hiding out there. Getting to the cave was quite a long, steep trek, but worth it for the spectacular view from the top. This was followed by lunch at a restaurant–excellent Kurdish food.
Some have asked about the security here. I have felt safe in Erbil and have walked on the streets without concern. I was a little apprehensive about the long drive to Dohuk, but it went without a hitch. There are checkpoints along the way, but life seems to be going on.
I am turning in early tonight. Tomorrow is my last day of teaching about preservation of ivory, and I also have to grade the projects the students worked on today in my absence. In the afternoon I will be interviewed for Kurdish TV. Don’t forget to watch!
Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.
Gary Vikan, director of the Walters Art Museum since 1994, has been with the Baltimore institution for more than 20 years. A native of Minnesota, Gary received his B.A. from Carleton College in 1967 and his Ph.D. from Princeton University in 1976 before working as Senior Associate for Byzantine Art Studies at Dumbarton Oaks in Washington, D.C.