CultureComment

I finished teaching preservation of ivory this morning and graded the students on their condition reports and object re-housing projects completed yesterday while I was in Dohuk. I can’t believe how attached I have become to the students here after only 1 week. They are so dedicated and hard working and so hungry for knowledge. Today was the last day of classes for the module, and dignitaries arrived from as far away as Baghdad to attend the presentation of the certificates to the students. They are all so proud. I gave a short speech at the ceremony and then was interviewed by the local press. The graduation of the first class from the Iraqi Institute for Conservation of Antiquities and Heritage is truly a momentous occasion.

This evening I was invited to a talk on Islamic metalwork by a German scholar. There always seems to be something going on here organized by the ex-pat community.

I must pack now and don’t regret that I did not have any time for shopping. I will take back feelings and memories that no amount of money can buy.

Signing off from Erbil, Iraq.
Terry

Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.

I left at 7:00a.m. for Dohuk, a 3 hour ride northwest on very dusty roads, to give 2 lectures on the value of cultural property and the conservator’s role in preserving it. I spoke first at the University of Dohuk to the Director and his students of the Institute of Planning and the College of Engineering and Architecture. I then gave a lecture to the Dohuk Director General of Antiquities and his staff. The highlight for me was a personal tour with the Director General of Antiquities of the Chewar Stoon Cave, an ancient temple site. The cave had 4 natural pillar formations inside, but only 1 was intact due to bombing by Saddam. Apparently he thought his enemies were hiding out there. Getting to the cave was quite a long, steep trek, but worth it for the spectacular view from the top. This was followed by lunch at a restaurant–excellent Kurdish food.

Some have asked about the security here. I have felt safe in Erbil and have walked on the streets without concern. I was a little apprehensive about the long drive to Dohuk, but it went without a hitch. There are checkpoints along the way, but life seems to be going on.

I am turning in early tonight. Tomorrow is my last day of teaching about preservation of ivory, and I also have to grade the projects the students worked on today in my absence. In the afternoon I will be interviewed for Kurdish TV. Don’t forget to watch!

Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.

Terry Drayman-Weisser will be a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. The Walters’ conservation laboratory is the third oldest in the U.S. and is known for its high standards in treatment and research. Terry writes about the first day of her work in Iraq.

After about 12 hours of sleepless travel I got my first glimpse of Erbil, Iraq.  As my plane began its descent, the view of the city from the air was obscured by a yellow dust cloud.  When I could finally see, I was amazed at how large and sprawling Erbil is with lots of new construction.  Apparently many refugees have settled here.  I am staying in a house in a protected traditionally Christian community, so it is much less conservative than the downtown (liquor stores!).  I was struck by how many bridal (yes bridal) shops there are in Erbil.  In fact, one of the streets looks a lot like Eastern Avenue in Baltimore.  The house I am in has everything one needs to live a simple, comfortable life.  So why do all of the bathroom fixtures look as if they were looted from Saddam’s palaces?

More later.
Terry