Posts Tagged ‘iraq’

Time to Pack up My Traveling Bag

Posted by Gary Vikan on Thursday, November 11th, 2010

It has been a long day. My students took their final written and practical tests today. They did very well and on the whole are very pleased with themselves. Do you know the difference between the angles of the Schreger lines in the ivory of elephant versus mammoth? They do, and without hesitation. Some of the students came bearing gifts and told me they would miss me. I am very touched. We also had a discussion today about Iraqi artifacts in museums in other countries. It is a sensitive subject! Although some feel that the artifacts should be returned, others like the idea that people in other countries see their cultural heritage, as long as the objects are labeled Iraqi.

Well, it is time to pack up my traveling bag of strange and wonderful samples and curiosities. Once again I am overwhelmed by the dedication of the students and their drive to do well under difficult circumstances. The success of this endeavor is due to the program directors who work with the students every day, attend to the needs of the trainers, like me, while they are far from home, and who maintain good humor as they navigate the seemingly endless complications of living in this uncertain part of the world. I am full of admiration.

Signing off once again from Erbil, Iraq,
Terry


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. This is the final post from her return trip.

Preparing for the Final Exam

Posted by Gary Vikan on Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

The students are distracted worrying about their final exam that I will give tomorrow. I promised to do a review with them at the end of the day. This morning I lectured on stabilization of ivory and the application of reinforcing backings. We then did a lab project practicing what they had learned. They seemed to really enjoy doing this hands-on exercise and they all did it beautifully.

After lunch I gave a special lecture on the changing role of the museum conservator to visitors from Salahaddin University. There were students and faculty in attendance. Afterwards I gave the promised review session to my students. I can’t believe tomorrow is my last day of teaching. The time has flown by.

Terry


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.

Examining Archaeological Ivory in Erbil, Iraq

Posted by Gary Vikan on Tuesday, November 9th, 2010

Met up with the students at the Institute for a morning excursion to the Erbil Civilizations Museum to examine archaeological ivory. We were met by the museum director and one of my students from last May who is the conservator there. It was a proud moment to see how much her confidence has grown as she opened cases and showed us the ivory on view as well as pieces from storage. She explained how one of the pieces had been smashed when it was knocked to the floor by thieves. Two of the stolen pieces were recovered later at the border.

We were also introduced to a German archaeological team, including a conservator, who had set up a laboratory in one of the galleries. The Germans had excavated an object that they thought might be ivory and asked me to take a look. It was not ivory, but it was exciting to see the freshly excavated material.

Then it was back to the Institute where I lectured on the deterioration of ivory. I gave each of the students a dental mirror as a gift for examining the interior of ivory objects. This seemed appropriate since, after all, ivory objects are made from teeth.


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.

Examining Ivory

Posted by Gary Vikan on Monday, November 8th, 2010


This is a rare example of a 16th-century Turkish ivory hilt, delicately carved in relief with arabesque designs of interlacing foliage scrolls.

This morning my students showed up early all set to start today’s lesson on ivory sources. After my lecture they were so excited to discover that they can actually tell the difference between elephant, mammoth, hippo, walrus, warthog, sperm whale and narwhal ivory. They all aced the quiz. Then they showed me the ivory objects they had selected from the Walters website and identified what kind of ivory they were. The sad thing is that what we take for granted remains so difficult for them. We would never have the patience to wait so long for images to appear on the monitor. At tea break we had visits from a Greek and several Germans, all thinking about ways to collaborate with the Institute. At lunch two Kurdish members of the Institute’s board visited and stayed to watch the students show off their new skills.

In the afternoon we worked in the laboratory looking at different types of ivory under the microscope, taking photomicrographs, and making a tool to measure Schreger lines on elephant and mammoth ivory. The students learned the hot needle test for synthetic ivory–always a hit as the needle penetrates the surface and smoke and fumes rise from the sample. Of course, then I had to break it to them that it is unlikely they will ever do this popular test on an actual artifact and that I demonstrate it only to show how destructive it is.

Tomorrow morning we will visit a local museum to look at their ivory.

Terry


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.

First Day with a New Class

Posted by Gary Vikan on Sunday, November 7th, 2010

There was much discussion at dinner last night about someone being caught at a checkpoint here with explosives in the car. I believe the driver was on the road to Kirkuk. Still, this area is relatively safe compared to Baghdad.


This alabaster relief is Assyrian. It was once painted. Conservators have determined what it must have looked like, by finding tiny remnants of the original pigments.

The rooster went off much earlier this morning. I don’t think this rooster and I are destined to stay on good terms. Today was my first day with the new class. The students are as enthusiastic and eager to learn as the group I taught in May. There is also a “master trainer” sitting in on the class from the Iraqi National Museum in Baghdad. She and a Kurdish conservator who was in my May class will be learning all they can to take on coordinating training as the program transitions from the Americans to the Iraqis. They are both bright and talented, so the future for the Institute looks positive.

My students all went on the Walters website today to learn how to locate works of art. Part of their homework assignment is to select an ivory object from the collection for further discussion in class. I also assigned them the Walters website education activity, “Integrating the Arts“, to re-color the Assyrian relief. Once they found it I could not get them to take their afternoon break. They were all totally mesmerized.

I must prepare now for tomorrow’s class. I just hope that darn rooster sleeps in.

Terry


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.

Getting Ready for Work in the Laboratory

Posted by Gary Vikan on Saturday, November 6th, 2010

I awoke this morning with the roosters and sat outside with my tea in the warm sunlight. A local hen with her chicks came to visit. I felt villanous eating an egg for breakfast. This is a day off here, but Sunday is a regular working day for everyone, including me. So I must finish preparing my lectures today.

I have just returned from the Institute. I wanted to check out the set up in the laboratory so there will be no surprises tomorrow. Everything seems to be in good order. While I was out, I was treated to a tour of the Citadel (overlooking the Institute) by a British preservation specialist who has been working on a master plan for the site. Seeing the structures through his eyes was worth the overall coating of dust I accumulated. The team staying at the house has just grown by one, a photographer. We are having a barbeque for dinner tonight–hard to believe that I am in Iraq.

Terry from Erbil, Iraq


Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.

Return to Erbil

Posted by Gary Vikan on Friday, November 5th, 2010

Our chief conservator, Terry Drayman-Weisser, has returned to Iraq. She visited there in May, and wrote as a guest blogger here on Culture Comment. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there. She will be guest-blogging again, during her return trip.


Arrived in Erbil to discover a new airport — opened, I hear, when Joe Biden visited here — nice. After listening with apprehension over the last few weeks to reports of renewed violence in Iraq, I am surprised by how familiar and comfortable everything feels. One thing I will have to get used to is that it begins to get dark at 4:30 in the afternoon. I am staying again with directors from the Iraqi Institute for the Conservation of Antiquites and Heritage where I will be teaching this week. There is a fuller house this time — 6 of us — conservators and architects. My hosts have been invited to a fish dinner tonight and have asked if I want to join them. I am too exhausted so instead will turn in early. I think I will easily sleep through the clamorous sounds of a neighborhood celebration — a wedding?

Day 7 in Iraq

Posted by Gary Vikan on Friday, May 28th, 2010

I finished teaching preservation of ivory this morning and graded the students on their condition reports and object re-housing projects completed yesterday while I was in Dohuk. I can’t believe how attached I have become to the students here after only 1 week. They are so dedicated and hard working and so hungry for knowledge. Today was the last day of classes for the module, and dignitaries arrived from as far away as Baghdad to attend the presentation of the certificates to the students. They are all so proud. I gave a short speech at the ceremony and then was interviewed by the local press. The graduation of the first class from the Iraqi Institute for Conservation of Antiquities and Heritage is truly a momentous occasion.

This evening I was invited to a talk on Islamic metalwork by a German scholar. There always seems to be something going on here organized by the ex-pat community.

I must pack now and don’t regret that I did not have any time for shopping. I will take back feelings and memories that no amount of money can buy.

Signing off from Erbil, Iraq.
Terry

Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.

Day 6 in Iraq

Posted by Gary Vikan on Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

I left at 7:00a.m. for Dohuk, a 3 hour ride northwest on very dusty roads, to give 2 lectures on the value of cultural property and the conservator’s role in preserving it. I spoke first at the University of Dohuk to the Director and his students of the Institute of Planning and the College of Engineering and Architecture. I then gave a lecture to the Dohuk Director General of Antiquities and his staff. The highlight for me was a personal tour with the Director General of Antiquities of the Chewar Stoon Cave, an ancient temple site. The cave had 4 natural pillar formations inside, but only 1 was intact due to bombing by Saddam. Apparently he thought his enemies were hiding out there. Getting to the cave was quite a long, steep trek, but worth it for the spectacular view from the top. This was followed by lunch at a restaurant–excellent Kurdish food.

Some have asked about the security here. I have felt safe in Erbil and have walked on the streets without concern. I was a little apprehensive about the long drive to Dohuk, but it went without a hitch. There are checkpoints along the way, but life seems to be going on.

I am turning in early tonight. Tomorrow is my last day of teaching about preservation of ivory, and I also have to grade the projects the students worked on today in my absence. In the afternoon I will be interviewed for Kurdish TV. Don’t forget to watch!

Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.

Day 5 in Iraq

Posted by Gary Vikan on Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

Gave my first test today. Everyone got 100%. Are they brilliant, or was my test too easy? I think they are brilliant.

The students have been anxious to talk about treatment of ivory, and I have been anxious to know more about the fate of the Nimrud ivories. Everyone’s wishes were fulfilled today. Most of the Nimrud ivories still await treatment, and I am hopeful that the training I am providing will make a difference in the outcome.

This evening had dinner with an architectural conservation consultant. He was born and raised in Africa, became a zookeeper in England (he was a friend of Gerald Durrell, one of my favorite authors!), and had a few other careers before settling into his current niche. His house reminds me of a Disney movie set–I was waiting for the princess to appear at one of the upper balconies.

I am traveling to Dohuk (a 3 hour drive) very early tomorrow morning to give lectures at University of Dohuk and to the Director General of Antiquities and his staff. Must finish preparing my lectures NOW.

Terry Drayman-Weisser is a guest blogger here on Culture Comment, during her trip to Iraq. She is the director of conservation and technical research, at the Walters Art Museum, and travels to Iraq to assist with conservation efforts there.