Archive for July, 2010

They Get It, Vol. 1: Taylor Stitch

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Monday, July 26th, 2010

Tayor_Stitch_architects_shirtOne of the main purposes of Gentlemanly Means Pursued, moving forward, will be to highlight people, products, and services that “get it.” I can’t say exactly what I mean by that other than to tell you that I know it when I see it. That elusive combination of style, value, craft, and care…it’s out there, and I aim to catalogue it for you here. As much as I can, anyway.

Take for example the folks out at Taylor Stitch, “a small, independent, San Francisco based outfit that specializes in crafting men’s button-up shirts.” There it is — the whole company summed up beautifully in one line. Great start. Add to that the fact that their shirts are all handmade in the USA and that they look great and, yeah, I’m on board.

I can’t remember how or when I first discovered them but I know the moment I became a fan: with this blog post about how they decided which buttons to use. Dig:

Our theory is that brands rarely talk about buttons because they do not put much thought into them. Not us. We pontificated over buttons for many days: plastic, wood, mother of pearl, synthetic plastic and mother of pearl… In the end, the four of us unanimously agreed that Corozo buttons were the only choice.

Fine-tuned interest in the oddities of detail is not in itself a guarantor of success, but it’s usually a pretty good sign. At the very least it’s a good way to tell whether or not you’re dealing with a kindred spirit.

In the interest of full disclosure, I don’t actually own a Taylor Stitch shirt (yet). I’ve got my eye on one of these but the budget doesn’t quite have room just now. Not that it’s overpriced — not at all. Quality costs extra, and that’s as it should be.

“They Get It” will be an ongoing series. More to come soon.

Levi’s Goes Beyond the Clothes in Braddock, PA

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

limited edition Levi's Field NotesLast Sunday I checked into the Levi’s store with a goal of picking up a couple packs of limited edition “Notes From the Road” notebooks (mission accomplished). I’m a Field Notes fan* going back to their original launch and a Levi’s fan going back even farther. Indeed, rare is the day that I won’t be found rocking a pair of 505s. They’re not perfect but they get the job done nicely and their low cost makes them easy to acquire and replace (as opposed to my other favorite denim option).

Levi’s is one of those classic American heritage brands that has earned a healthy measure of cachet and respect, and it’d be easy for them to embrace that angle as nothing more than a matter of advertising. That’s the cynical approach, yes, but it’s also the approach most companies would take. It’s easier to rest on reputation than it is to actually push it. Levi’s, to their credit, is pushing it.

The aforementioned Field Notes collab is a great example, and the Pioneer Sessions project is another. The ongoing “Go Forth” campaign is yet another. There’s also the Workshops project, which is amazing and will probably get a post of its own sometime soon.

Today, though, it’s about what I found on Sunday as I paid for my notebooks: their involvement with Braddock, Pennsylvania.

I first heard about Braddock maybe a year or so ago via an article in Rolling Stone (sadly not available online). What’s happening there, essentially, is that people are taking the future into their own hands and revitalizing a dying city piece-by-piece, one project and one idea at a time. One person at a time. As Levi’s puts it:

Braddock, PA is a town of pioneers. It’s a place where artists, farmers and activists are building a new America where another once stood. This is their story.

It’s also the story of the people who were originally responsible for Levi’s becoming what they are today, a fact the company seems to get.

Stories like this are the real economic recovery. Messages like these are the ones that need to be heard. Real solutions never come from the top down. That doesn’t mean the other way always works, but I’ll take the odds any day.

*more on them soon

The Genius of Ricky Jay, Illusionist

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

Ricky JayI’m not at all certain that Mr. Jay would approve of my describing him as an “illusionist.” He’s really much more than that. Writer, collector, card sharp, storyteller, archivist, historian, actor — all of these terms and a few more can be used to accurately describe his work. But I needed something for the headline that could hint at the essence of the man. So, “illusionist” it is. Inadequate though it may be.

You’ve seen him before. He’s a regular in the films of David Mamet, most recently the excellent but underappreciated Redbelt. He appeared in Boogie Nights and Tomorrow Never Dies and has been seen of late on TV in the cast of FlashForward. Those are but a few examples — the full list is here. His droll demeanor and ability to convey a sense of always being one step ahead serve him well on the screen. He makes it hard to look away.

Film and TV work, however, represent merely a subset of his contributions to the popular culture. It’s as a practitioner and historian of magic and mystery that I find him most interesting. His (sadly out-of-print) book, Learned Pigs & Fireproof Women, could be considered a textbook on early American oddity were it not so engaging and entertaining. His ability to manipulate cards and couch the trick in expert storytelling (see below) is without peer. David Blaine gets close, but he’s not yet at Jay’s level.

Jay is also the proprietor of what I feel comfortable calling the world’s most interesting consultancy, Deceptive Practices (small warning: the link returns oddly-sized content). Their motto is “Arcane Knowledge On a Need To Know Basis” and the description couldn’t be more apt. Essentially, Jay is Hollywood’s go-to guy for solving particularly intransigent problems. My guess is that his services in that regard come only at a deservedly high premium.

My curiosity about Jay began with his appearances in the aforementioned Mamet films, The Spanish Prisoner in particular. It came to maturity when I devoted some time to Secrets of Magus, a comprehensive New Yorker profile by Mark Singer that first appeared in 1993. It’s long, but commit to it and you will come away feeling as if Ricky Jay is one of this country’s most fascinating characters. Which he is.

The other night I whiled away some time watching him do card tricks via YouTube. Two such videos are embedded below for your pleasure. Do yourself a favor, though, and don’t stop there. Read the New Yorker article in its entirety and then seek out more Ricky Jay for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.

YouTube Preview Image YouTube Preview Image

The One Bold Move Apple Hasn’t Yet Made

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Monday, July 12th, 2010

Apple logoBy now the culture of innovation and bold decision making at Apple is the stuff of legend. They simply have no peer, at least in terms of major corporations. It’s the reason Microsoft didn’t make iTunes. The reason Dell didn’t come out with the iPad and the reason nobody produced anything like the iPhone until the iPhone already existed. No other large company looks forward the way Apple does.

With that comes high expectations. Apple sets a certain standard and every time I buy one of their products I’m investing in the idea that they’ll not only continue to live up to it but exceed it as well. Lately, though, I’ve realized that they’re seriously lacking in one key area. They’re missing a giant opportunity to make a game-changing move that extends beyond their usual excellence in design, technology, and user experience.

Apple needs to open an American manufacturing facility. Ideally in Detroit, where the real estate and the workers are readily available and where the local economy and the American tradition both desperately need a boost.

Every time I buy a product manufactured overseas I feel a little guilty. I try (though not as hard as I could) to buy American-made goods when I can. Often, though, the option doesn’t exist. Go ahead and try to purchase domestically produced consumer electronics and see how far you get. It’s more than a little difficult.

There’s no reason it has to be that way. Even if things will never again be how they were it’s still possible — necessary — to recoup some of the losses. To that end, consider the following scenario.

Apple announces tomorrow that they’ve purchased a dormant facility in Detroit with plans to turn it into a high-end technology incubator. They’ll produce both internal prototypes and limited-run consumer goods. They’ll hire 500 workers and offer them comprehensive training and full benefits.

Who wouldn’t be excited by that?

They could then easily — and justifiably — charge a premium for American-made iPods or iPhones or products we haven’t even seen yet. Their customers are accustomed to paying a little more anyway. I’d bet many of them would pay a little more still to not only own the product but contribute in some small way to an American manufacturing renaissance.

Just as Apple has no major competition in terms of the design of their products (which, to be fair, is handled in America), opening up a domestic factory would set them apart. They’d generate a ton of goodwill and positive press. More importantly, they’d be doing something truly great and truly innovative.

Which is what they’re all about, right?

The opportunity is there. Apple is the right fit. If they don’t seize it, let’s hope someone does.

Forgotten Starlets: Inger Stevens

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Wednesday, July 7th, 2010

Born in Sweden in 1935, Inger Stevens enjoyed a brief but impressive run in American show business. The highlights include movies with Bing Crosby and Clint Eastwood (among others), fame as ABC’s The Farmer’s Daughter, and an extraordinary performance in one of the greatest Twilight Zone episodes ever.

She had, however, a reputation as something of a mystery. A troubled person whose achievement was tinged with darkness. You can feel that edge when you watch her perform (here’s another example) and it’s probably got a lot to do with her magnetism.

No doubt it also has a lot to do with the fact that her life was sadly cut short by suicide at age 35. Well before her time and well before she could truly solidify her place in the canon of American screen legends.

Learn more: Wikipedia, IMDB, TCM

(photos via fan site ingerstevens.org)

Edward Hopper: The History That Wasn’t

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

Edward_Hopper_NighthawksJeremiah Moss, proprietor of Vanishing New York, checks in over at the New York Times with a fascinating study on the origins and derivations of Edward Hopper‘s iconic Nighthawks (at left).

Click here to give it a read.

The gist is that people have for a long time believed that a presently vacant lot once held the diner that inspired Hopper’s work. One reader’s tip and a slate of painstaking research later, this appears not to be true. It seems instead that Hopper was (like many an artist) inspired by the things around him and invented the Nighthawks diner to suit his needs. In his words (quoted by Moss) he was “Unconsciously…painting the loneliness of a large city.”

It’s a great little story and Moss deserves credit for putting it on the record. I find it somewhat odd, though, that he’s disappointed by the outcome. For me it’s as it should be. I never would have thought before now to ask the question of which diner had served as Hopper’s muse. If such a diner existed I would feel let down. The genius of the work lies in what Hopper himself said, that he was painting an idea and not a place.

Had that idea been nothing more than a stylized representation of something we might someday glimpse in a forgotten photograph the painting would lose much of its mystery. And, in that, much of its value.

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