Gentlemanly Means Pursued

Holiday Buying for the Gentleman in Your Life: Part Two

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

With the holiday shopping season underway, the braintrust at Gentlemanly Means Pursued has been working hard to make it easier to buy for the man in your life. Your boyfriend, husband, lover, father, brother, son, uncle — most everybody’s got one or more of ‘em. And, yeah, they can be difficult creatures. Never fear. We’ve got you covered.

This is part two, wherein we offer gifts in the $50-$150 range.

You can also read Part One, covering gifts $50 and under.

Handmade Football by Leather Head (pictured)
$110, available from the manufacturer

These things are so damn cool that I ought to keep them to myself (and whoever I might get one for). But, that wouldn’t be fair. So here you go.

If there’s such a thing as an “artisanal football,” this is it. That’s a ridiculous phrase, though, so let’s not use it. Instead let’s just say that the man who pulls this thing out at a tailgate or at halftime on a Sunday afternoon earns instant credibility. At least in the eyes of those who know.

Utility Bifold Wallet by Tanner Goods
$70, available from tannergoods.com

Yes, I’ve written about Tanner Goods before. What of it?

Fact is, I’ve had one of these wallets for about seven months now and I can’t say enough good things. Everything about it — the stitching, the cut, the size, the way it’s wearing in — meets or exceeds my expectations. Given that it’s handmade in the USA, all the better.

Put it this way: if you think your man might need or want a wallet, this is the way to go.

Necktie by Pierrepont Hicks or Graham Withers
$68-$140 (most closer to the low end of that range), available from Pierrepont Hicks and Graham Withers

I used to hate wearing ties. I hated the idea of wearing ties. Why? Because I was naive. I didn’t understand that a tie could be more than some lame silk job with all the personality of a Dilbert cartoon.

Then, I found Pierrepont Hicks and Graham Withers. Looking at their (made in the USA) work I thought, “damn, I’ve been missing out.”

These are ties for a guy who’s wearing one because he wants to, not because he has to.

A Better Shave
options vary, generally $50-$100 or so

Shaving sucks. It just does. That’s part of the reason I wear a beard in the winter.

I’m thinking, though, that part of the reason it sucks is because I’m not trying hard enough. Most men don’t. So when the time to shave again arrives, I plan to mix things up. I’m going to hit up a site like Baxter of California (about whom I’ve heard good things) and get some grown-up, high-quality shaving supplies.

The man in your life is probably thinking something similar, even if he doesn’t realize it yet.

As always, fire away with suggestions of your own if you have ‘em. Next installment ($150 and up) coming soon.

Tags: holiday gift guide
Posted in advice, apparel, business, essentials, living well | 4 Comments »

Holiday Buying for the Gentleman in Your Life: Part One

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, November 30th, 2010

For part one, we offer gifts in the $50 and under range:

Field Notes Notebooks
$9.95 for a 3-pack — available from fieldnotesbrand.com

Field Notes are the perfect everyday notebook. Small enough to fit easily in a pocket, durable enough to stand up to daily wear, but not so precious that you feel bad if you accidentally throw it in the wash or rip the cover. Equal parts stylish and functional.

Every man needs a notebook now and then and at 10 bucks for a pack of three you can’t go wrong. Plus, they’re designed and manufactured right here in the USA.

J.Crew Factory Button-Down Shirt
prices vary, most under $50 — available from jcrew.com

There’s a J.Crew factory store down at Arundel Mills and they consistently have a fine selection of button-down shirts at very reasonable prices. I have four of them myself and they’re great. Not too dressy, not too casual, and all kinds of comfortable. I’m sure the quality on the standard J.Crew models is somewhat better, but the value on these can’t be beat. They’d serve a solid function in any man’s wardrobe.

Size-wise, I wear a medium and have found them true to that.

One buying note: the online version of the factory store is theoretically only open from Friday at midnight to Sunday at midnight. I haven’t tested that, but to be safe you might want to order over the weekend.

Opinel Knife
prices vary, most under $50 — available from opiknife.com

As I noted in my pocket knife post back in June, there are two things at work here:

One, every man should carry a knife.

Two, Opinels are beautiful and highly functional.

The No. 3 works great in a pocket, while the larger sizes serve larger purposes. No matter which way you go, an Opinel will make a beautiful gift. Dig in and pick one you think your chosen man will like. He will.

CXXVI Sea Rope Bottle Opener
pictured above — $36, available from CXXVI.net

Made in the USA from steel forged by hand on a 130-year old anvil. How often do you get a chance to buy something with that pedigree? Not often enough.

Maybe it sounds crazy to spend $36 dollars on a bottle opener. It might even be crazy. But if you consider that what you’re really doing is buying a handmade tool that will literally last a lifetime and then some, it starts to look like a damn fine gift idea. At least to me, and quite possibly to the man in your life as well.

Dogfish Head Beer Soap
$5, available from dogfish.com

More of a stocking stuffer than an actual gift, sure, but worthy of inclusion regardless. A perfect way to wash off the detritus of a well-spent day or cleanse the night away in preparation for a new one.

Honorable Mentions:
Some beer to go with that soap, a bottle of Copper Fox rye, an Old Time Sling Shot, or a gift-that-keeps-on-giving subscription to Esquire, GQ, or Playboy.

Have ideas of your own? Let ‘em fly in the comments.

Coming Soon: parts two and three, covering gifts from $50-$150 and $150 and up.

Tags: holiday gift guide
Posted in advice, apparel, business, essentials, living well | 1 Comment »

The Best Music You’re Not Yet Hearing

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Thursday, November 11th, 2010

I used to bristle, back in the day, whenever a band or musician I loved found mainstream attention. I’d feel a sense of loss, as if something that once belonged to me and people like me was lessened by the attention of folks who didn’t “get it” like we did.

I realize now that such notions are nonsense.

If the quote-unquote mainstream takes notice of something legitimately good then that’s a net win. Maybe it’s not “mine” or “ours” anymore, but so what? The more people we can get digging something good, the better it is for people making good things. And that’s really the point, isn’t it?

To that end, here’s where I share a secret: The White Buffalo.

In the past I’ve described him in conversation this way: imagine having the chance to see Dylan when he was still scuffling in Greenwich Village clubs.

Lofty claim? Sure it is. But this guy is good.

Proof:

He’s got one full-length and two EPs available now from the usual sources (iTunes, Amazon, etc).

Dig in now and you’re ahead of the curve. You can say you knew him when.

Posted in art, music | Comments Off

Northeast Inspiration for Fall

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Monday, November 8th, 2010

Lately I’ve been finding myself quite drawn to the work of New York-based CXXVI and Portland, Maine’s Rogues Gallery. Both labels consistently produce pieces that manage to capture the vibe of the northeast coast without feeling cliché. Good and solid is what it is. And, in some cases, actually fairly affordable.

A selection (top three by CXXVI, bottom three by Rogues Gallery):

Posted in apparel, style, the american landscape | 3 Comments »

The Simple Path to Great Chili

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010

What I’m about to reveal to you is not a recipe. I don’t believe much in recipes when it comes to something like chili. It’s an individual pursuit not well served by constraints like “this much X, that much Y.” Chili is something that must be yours and yours only.

That said, it sometimes helps to have a framework. A place from which to start whereby the probability of success is enhanced. The simpler the better. Here it is.

Step One: Ingredients

You need protein, beans, spices, and base. That’s it.

Protein’s whatever you like. I use vegan/vegetarian ground “meat” but you will, of course, use what suits you.

I recommend 2-5 different kinds of beans, preferably with varying thickness and texture. You can’t go wrong with some mix of black and pinto (soft), kidney (firmer), garbanzo (very firm), and great northern (very soft).

In terms of spice, a good chili powder is a must. Experiment to find one you like and treat it as your foundation. From there it’s a matter of heat and flavor preference. I like a smoky flavor so I tend to go with smoked paprika (my secret weapon) and ground chipotle. Cayenne pepper works great for pure heat, and you can get interesting results with garlic, basil, thyme, and/or oregano. High-quality salt is key, as well.

In some recipes the base is the trickiest part. I’ve seen calls for all manner of ingredients like broth (beef and/or vegetable), vinegar, tomato paste, oil. Skip all that. Instead, grab a jar of whatever all-natural salsa you’d normally use for dipping purposes. Couple it with a can of diced tomatoes. Choose the mild option for both, and let these form your base. Not only does this simplify your prep process, it also means that you end up with things like tomato, onion, and pepper included by default.

This isn’t to say that you should avoid prepping fresh vegetables. If that’s how you like it, do your own veggies/peppers and trade the salsa for extra cans of diced tomatoes.

Step Two: Assemble and Prep

Let’s assume you’re going to either serve 4-6 people or aim to have a strong batch of leftovers.

You need about a pound of protein, give or take. If you’re using meat, prep it in advance. If you’re using the vegan/vegetarian stuff there’s usually no need for that.

Get yourself a large pot and dump in the salsa and/or diced tomatoes. Add your spices using the following as a rough guideline to start:

- 2-3 tablespoons chili powder (think of how strong you want it)
- 1 tablespoon salt (start with no more than this)
- Several vigorous shakes of whatever else you like (not too much of any one thing just yet)

Stir this mixture and put it on low heat to start the simmer.

Gather your beans — 4-6 cans in this case. Drain, rinse, and add half of them. Stir.

Add your protein, then drain, rinse, and add the other half.

At this point everything is in the pot. You’re still a long way from chili.

Step Three: Mix, Taste, Repeat

Increase heat to medium and stir everything for a minute or two. Check the consistency and add water if it’s too thick. Let simmer for 10-15 minutes. Cover, then embark on a journey.

Let the flavors cook in, tasting every 15 minutes at least. Add spice and/or salt to taste, but do so a little at a time because the nuances don’t come through right away. Take it slow.

After 90 minutes, see where you’re at. If any one flavor seems too strong, add some more water. If anything seems too weak, add spice. Repeat as necessary.

Once the flavor profile seems right, give it a final five or ten minutes to simmer, then take it off the heat and let it sit for at least 10-20 minutes.

Step Four: Now What?

That depends. If need be, you’re ready to serve. If you have the luxury of time, though, you’ll be even more ready to serve the next day. Letting the mix sit overnight and reheating (always on the stove — no microwave) is ideal. That’s all a matter of planning.

So there you go. Follow these guidelines, apply healthy doses of your own taste and creativity, adapt as you go, and success will almost certainly follow.

Posted in advice, essentials, food, living well | 3 Comments »

The Five Best Horror Films of All Time

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

Few cinematic pleasures rival the feeling of watching a good horror flick in the fall. As temperatures dip and howling winds give voice to lost souls, a horror film is something to savor.

For those interested in doing just that there’s no shortage of options. To help cut to the quick, I’ve curated a list of what I believe to be your five best choices. It’s admittedly eclectic and perhaps not fully in line with mainstream tastes, but that’s part of the fun. If you’re going to make a list you may as well go out on a limb.

1. The Texas Chainsaw Massacre, Tobe Hooper, 1974
Few films, if any, are as relentlessly brutal as this. Starting with the very first frames you’re seduced into a world of deep disturbance and foreboding mood. From there, things get worse. It’s a hard film to watch because there’s basically no hope. Even the ending, which offers a token escape, feels like a net loss. This is horror in its purest form.

Stylistically it’s appropriately scratchy and low-fi, which only adds to the sense that things could fall apart at any moment. Which, of course, they do.

Maybe this isn’t the “best” horror film ever made, but it’s #1 on this list for a reason.

2. Halloween, John Carpenter, 1978
At its core, this film answers a most troubling question: what if pure evil took a human form?

History tends to regard Michael Myers as the quintessential slasher flick boogeyman but in truth that’s an unfair reputation. The film features very little gore, and it’s wrong to characterize it as a slasher flick at all. It works because it gives life to the idea that evil could rise up anywhere — even in the most bucolic setting — and do so almost quietly. By the time anyone figures out what’s happening, it’s too late.

3. Suspiria, Dario Argento, 1977
If you’re looking for an airtight plot and/or a conventional horror experience, steer clear of this one. If you’re interested the idea that a horror film could operate on the level of art, here you go.

Argento’s masterpiece is a relentless treat for the senses. The music, cinematography, and direction work together to create a completely unique world, and the death scenes are as gorgeously filmed and choreographed as you’ll find anywhere else. It’s a jarring, seductive, and ultimately beautiful piece of work. More like a symphony than a pop song, which is no easy feat.

4. Friday the 13th Part 2, Steve Miner, 1981
This makes the grade for one simple reason: it’s the best example out there of a classic American slasher film. The first in the series is damn good, but Part 2 hits all the notes. It’s also the first film to feature Jason as the killer.

It’s the steak and potatoes of horror films. Hearty, satisfying, and endlessly enjoyable.

5. The Shining, Stanley Kubrick, 1980
I debated putting this on the list because I’m not entirely sure it’s a “horror” film. It’s a Stanley Kubrick film first and foremost.

Still, it’s amazing. Brilliant even. Perhaps not as stylistically accomplished as Suspiria but far stronger in terms of story and acting. And it satisfies on the level a horror film needs to in that it’s deeply disturbing.

Honorable Mentions: Dawn of the Dead (the original), Last House on the Left (again, the original)

Now it’s your turn. Name your own top five in the comments or take issue with my choices. Consider it a “desert island” challenge. If you could only watch five horror films, which would they be?

These are mine, but I have a hunch many of you won’t agree.

Posted in art, essentials, film | 7 Comments »

Do How Miles Did It

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Friday, October 22nd, 2010

I think if I had to explain the concept of cool to someone who had no idea what it meant, I’d put Kind of Blue on the turntable and start flipping through images of Miles Davis. Pound for pound it’s hard to do it better than him.

Cool, like knowledge, is a lifelong pursuit that never really stops. But if you just need a few tips or some quick shorthand, Miles is the guy to see.

Witness:

And here’s a live version of “So What.” The whole thing is great but pay attention at the 2:30 mark. Coltrane’s knee deep in a wicked solo and Miles is just chilling in the background, having a smoke and, basically, running things. Amazing.

All of which is just a sample. The deeper you get with Miles, the more you realize. The man was an icon in more ways than one.

Posted in icons, music, style | 2 Comments »

What About Bogart?

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

Surfing channels the other day, I stumbled upon an old movie. High Sierra to be exact, a 1941 noir starring Humphrey Bogart and Ida Lupino. I watched for about twenty minutes and it was entertaining enough. Good, actually. All the while, though, I couldn’t shake a question: what should I make of Humphrey Bogart?

There’s always something odd about watching movies from the 40s or 50s. Acting was a different craft then, more mannered and less natural than what we’re accustomed to today. It’s normal enough that Bogart doesn’t seem real because nobody from that era seems real. Still, there’s something different.

There’s a level on which he seems, to this day, unimpeachably cool. The man could wear a suit, for sure, and there’s plenty to admire in the effortless and stylish way he smokes a cigarette or carries a handgun. He’s in control and untouchable — there’s no denying the strength of his presence.

Yet when watching him act it’s hard to shake the feeling that he’s also, on some level, completely ridiculous. I actually witnessed him drop the line “yeah, yeah, blame it on the dame.” It was too funny to take seriously. If you use the word “dame” today — assuming you’re not talking about Judi Dench — you’re going to sound silly. Bogart sounded silly.

The line’s the line and that isn’t his fault, but I can’t shake the disconnect. The problem, best I can figure, is that Bogart is simply, unfortunately, of his time. To understand the shadow he cast while becoming a legend doesn’t come naturally today. Styles have changed too much, and our impression is as colored by the parodies and impressions as it is by the work. Long gone are the days when he was Humphrey Bogart. Today, you almost have to put the name in quotes.

Therein lies a lesson about the fate of icons. To do interesting work that lasts is to surrender control of that work and submit to the fates of culture and history. There’s no guarantee of fair treatment there. Had Bogart come along in the age of McQueen and Newman he might very well have outpaced them both — and all of their peers.

Which makes me wonder: will there come a time when guys like McQueen and Newman are likewise regarded as anachronisms? Versions of something great that no longer seem relevant?

Probably so. I don’t want to believe that, but I bet there are folks who still can’t understand how Bogart lost the mantle of standard-bearer. Even that which we regard as classic eventually spends time being irrelevant.

It’s cyclical, though, and something tells me Bogart might be poised for another run of good mojo. You can’t keep a guy like that down forever.

Posted in americana, film, icons | Comments Off

Alfred Eisenstaedt: the Martha’s Vineyard Photos, Part One

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

Back to the LIFE archives we go, this time for something completely unexpected: an intimate look at the New England coast courtesy of legendary photojournalist Alfred Eisenstaedt (whose work you have no doubt encountered before).

I found these images quite by accident and it turns out the collection runs hundreds (if not thousands) of photos deep. From that I’ve pulled about 40 of my favorites and set them aside for presentation.

Generally speaking, photos of Martha’s Vineyard shouldn’t and wouldn’t excite me much. I think of it as a moneyed town and little more, probably because I’ve never been there. That’s exactly why I dig these. It’s a testament to Eisenstaedt’s skill that the photos are about something much more interesting than leisure or privilege. These are, foremost, American photos. Whatever Martha’s Vineyard is, I love what Eisenstaedt did with it.

I’ll release these in batches of nine whenever the mood strikes. There isn’t a dud in the bunch, so enjoy.

(All credit/copyright/etc. to the Google/LIFE archive.)

Posted in americana, icons, photography | 1 Comment »

Six Autumn Essentials

Posted by Neal Shaffer on Thursday, September 23rd, 2010

Darkness arrives before eight now and that’s the first dead giveaway. The temperatures will cool, the leaves will turn. Fall is settling in for a visit.

Not that I’m complaining. Fall, for me, is the king of seasons, a welcome reward for having yet again endured the often stifling heat and humidity of a Mid-Atlantic summer. Spring is the season of renewal but fall is a season of opportunity. I don’t have any hard evidence to back that up but it’s been my experience.

Be ready. To help get you started, six essentials:

1. Tools
I mean this both literally and figuratively. Now is the time to make sure the knife is sharp. Make sure the kit is stocked. Make sure the batteries are charged. Get your mind right because, well, summer’s over.

2. One Good Jacket, One Good Sport Coat
The way I figure it, cooler weather demands that every man should have at least one solid jacket for casual wear and one versatile sport coat for dressier occasions. I’ve always known the former (at least as long as I can remember) but the latter has been a recent revelation. This fall will be my first with a sport coat, and if early returns are any indication I feel comfortable recommending the strategy to everyone.

For the women out there I’d imagine that something similar applies, yes?

3. Rye Whiskey
Rye seems to be making a comeback and I’m fully on board that bandwagon. Nothing against bourbon or scotch — I dig both — but rye is a unique pleasure. It’s got an edge to it, a little more complexity. It’s both demanding and rewarding.

You should be able to find a handful of options at any good liquor store but I say head straight for Copper Fox Rye. I could attempt to describe it but really the only word I need is delicious. Great anytime but essential for the cooler months.

4. The National, The Walkmen, Jamey Johnson
Three of 2010′s best albums:

Lisbon, High Violet, and The Guitar Song.

Put ‘em in heavy rotation — each rewards repeated listening.

5. Apple Cider
Get a jug of the freshest cider you can find. Pour as much as you like into a saucepan and mix in some cinnamon. Heat it up to just short of a light boil. Pour it into a cup then add a shot of that rye I mentioned above (bourbon works great, as well).

Trust me on this.

6. A Plan for Winter
Last winter, on the eve of the First Great Blizzard, I realized that I didn’t have boots. My old pair had fallen victim to a dog chew towards the end of the previous winter and I didn’t think to get another pair. So there I was at Wal-Mart, digging through shelves that had mostly been picked clean, looking for suitable footwear. I actually got lucky and found a decent enough pair in my size, for which I was rewarded with a wait in the most ungodly checkout line I’d ever seen. Awful.

This year I’ve got my eye on these classic LL Bean boots, which I figure ought to last forever if I can muster up the courage to pull the trigger. No doubt they’re well worth the cost but, well, $150 is $150.

I’m also planning on taking my dad’s old Navy pea coat (more on that beauty later) in for cleaning and repairs. I’m not going to get caught short again. You’d do well to see to the same.

Honorable Mention
A fire pit. This didn’t make the cut out of sensitivity to those who might not have anywhere to put it.

What about you? Hit me up in the comments with your own list (however long or short) of essential fall items. If I get enough of them I’ll put up a new post collecting the best recommendations.

Posted in advice, essentials, living well | 5 Comments »

Gentlemanly Means Pursued